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Needle a Little Help - Let us Point you in the Right Direction

When was the last time you changed your NEEDLE? 

Did you know that you should be changing your needle after 8 hrs of sewing time?

The needle is a small but very important part of your machine.  If you want a good quality stitch, a sharp, straight, new needle is a must for every project.  Do yourself a favor and don't skimp on your needles. You will be surpised at how much better your machine sews with a fresh new needle.

Schmetz Needles - when only the best will do. To make your sewing life easy, Schmetz has developed a new color coding system that indicates not only needle type but also size,  with the new colored bands.

 

Needle Know How

Needles are listed by type, purpose and size. Follow the basic guidelines for what type of needle and size of needle to use for different types and weights of fabrics.

Universal Needles

Universal Needles have a semi ball point.  The point is neither sharp, nor rounded.  They are all purpose and used for 90% of your sewing. 
Universal 60 For very light weight fabric; must be used with fine 60 wt. threads, often used in heirloom sewing.
Universal 70 For light weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 80 Standard all purpose size for medium weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 90 For heavier weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 100, 110 and 120 For heavy weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.

 

Denim/Jeans Needles

Denim/Jeans needles have a sharp point and are a strong needle.  They are ideal for all weights of woven fabrics.  The sharp point will penetrate the heavier fabrics, and also penetrate the fiber itself for a straight, even stitch.  A ball point or universal needle can deflect off to one side or another and give a crooked looking stitch.  If you are topstitching in a contrast color of thread, it can be very noticeable.
Denim 70 for light weight woven fabrics
Denim 80 for medium to light weight woven fabrics
Denim 90 and 100 for medium to heavy woven fabrics
Denim 110 for very heavy woven fabrics

Microtex/Sharp Needles

Sharp point for perfectly straight stitches. For use in topstitching or edge stitching on silk, microfiber or other tightly woven fabrics.
Microtex/Sharp 60 for very light weight woven fabrics, must be used with fine weight thread
Microtex/Sharp 70 for light to medium weight woven fabrics
Microtex/Sharp 80, and 90 for medium to heavy  weight woven fabrics

Topstitch Needles

Extra sharp with an extra large eye and a large groove to accommodate topstitch thread. Use where larger eye size is beneficial, for example Sulky 12 and 30 wt. cotton threads.  If your thread is shredding, try a topstitch needle.
Topstitch 12/80 light to medium weight woven fabrics
Topstitch 14/90 medium weight woven fabrics
Topstitch 16/100 heavy weight woven fabrics

Leather Needles

Leather Needles have a wedge shaped, cutting point for leather and heavy non-woven synthetics.
Leather 12/80 light weight leather
Leather 14/90 and 16/100 medium weight leather
Leather 18/110 heavy weight leather

Hemstitch Needles

 

Single wing needle for decorative hem stitching on tightly woven natural fiber fabrics. The “wing” creates small holes by separating the fibers, when used with hemstitches.
Hemstitch 100 and120 for all weights of fabric

Cutwork Needles

For use with an embroidery sewing machine, four separate needles each have a specific angle for cutting fabric using a pattern. This dramatically reduces the amount of time normally reserved to manually cutting out areas of fabric. What used to take hours or days now only takes minutes! No thread is used with the cutwork needles.

Quilting Needles

Special taper to point prevents damage to the sensitive, high quality materials used in quilting.
Quilting 75 and 90 assorted and 90 for all weights quilting fabric.

Embroidery Needles

For use with rayon and specialty machine embroidery thread. Use a smaller size needle with lighter weight threads and the 90 with heavier threads up to 30 wt.
Embroidery Assorted sizes 75and 90, and 90 for all weights fabric

Self-Threading Needles

General purpose needle with slip-in threading slot for people who have difficulty threading needles.
Self Threading 12/80 for light to medium weight fabric
Self Threading 14/90 for medium to heavy fabric

Titanium Coated

These needles are coated with a titanium ceramic outer coating to reduce heat when the needle is moving in and out of the eye. Titanium needles also offer a sharp point and a specially scarf to minimize thread abrasion during the embroidery process, virtually eliminating thread strip-back and breakage.

Twin Needles

Two needles on a single shaft. Can be used with zig zag machines that thread front to back. Sews two rows of stitching at the same time. Width has to be limited, depending on the distance between the two needles.  If your machine has a twin needle safety, enter the size of the needle you are using and the width will be automatically limited. The size describes both the size of the needle and the distance between the needle.  For example in 1.6/70, the 1.6 is the millimeter distance between the two needles.  The 70 is the actual size of the needle.  The twin needle is often used with a Pintuck foot to create twin needle Pintucks.  The distance between the needles needs to match the number of grooves in the bottom of the foot. 
Twin 1.6/70 Light weight fabrics
Twin 2.0/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 2.5/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 3.0/90 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/90 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/100 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 6.0/100 Medium to heavy weight fabrics

Triple Needles

Three needles on one shaft.  Often called a drilling needle, it is usually used to sew three rows of topstitching.  Use with a straight stitch only.
Triple 2.5 and Triple 3.0 medium to heavy weight fabric.

 

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